Mittens From the Top Pattern

Last Revision:
Dec. 8, 2008 (added titles, spelling corrections, and transition to cuff tip)

I finished this pair of warm mittens for my DD long ago. Albiet the frogging and reworking, it didn't take more than a few hours to knit. I would've published this sooner, but since I create as I work, my scribbled calculations resemble algebra homework to the untrained eye, and it takes precious time to translate into an easy-to-read pattern....

These are ambidextrous mittens, for practically any yarn, any gauge, and any size hand, knit via the Magic Loop. I worked them both at the same time, but for easier writing, these instructions are for one. You can easily use this pattern for knitting on 2 circs. For DPN's, simply translate by splitting the sts of each needle in half onto 2 dpn's each. Google any unfamiliar knitting techniques or abbreviations here, or reference them my favorite way -- in a library of many good knitting books.

Mittens shown: Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool dyed with black cherry Kool-Aid, approx 110 yds (100 m) for a 6.5" (16.5 cm) hand circumference. Needles in Sizes US#4 (3.5mm) & US#6 (4.0mm). Gauge = 5 sts/inch, or 20 sts/10cm using larger needles.

For warmth, most mittens are knit at a tight gauge, to fit the hand exactly, but no more than 10% wider. The yarn I used recommends 16 sts / 10cm on 5.5mm needles. You can substitute ANY YARN, ANY GAUGE, ANY SIZE, because this pattern is knit to fit, and you can try them on as you work and adjust accordingly. For the hand portion, use needles 1 to 3 sizes smaller than what is recommended on the label, and 1 or 2 sizes even smaller than the hand needles for the cuff ribbing.

TOP:

To figure the number of CO sts, shoot for 50% of the hand circumference, and round up to a multiple of 4 sts if you want 2x2 ribbing on the cuff, or round up to the next even number for 1x1 ribbing at the cuff. Or forget the calculations and use my CO estimates. Yarn weight=(child, adult): fingering/sport=(24,28); dk/worsted=(20,24); aran/chunky=(16,20); bulky=(8,12)

On larger needles, using the Turkish Cast-on or Judy's Magic Cast-on, cast on half the sts on one needle, half on the second. One needle is the front of the hand, the other needle is back of hand.

Inc rnd: On 1st needle, *Kf&b, K to last st on needle, Kf&b*
Rep from * to * once more across the 2nd needle. Total 4 sts inc.

Work 1 rnd even.

Rep last 2 rnds until num of sts = circumference of hand (32 sts shown here for a child).

Knit enough even rnds until length of hand reaches crook of thumb. Hand sizes vary widely, but on average range from 3.5" to 4.5" for a child, 4.5 to 5.5" for a woman, 5.5" to 6.5" for a man.

THUMB GUSSET:

K across 1st needle, place marker, and use a provisional CO to add enough sts to equal circumference of thumb (8 sts here) minus 3 sts. Now your thumb sts are at the end of 1st needle, separated by the marker, so you'll have several more sts on the 1st needle. Knit even to end of rnd.

Provisional CO: There are a few good methods, but here's my favorite: with a slippery cotton waste yarn, loosely crochet a few more chains than the required CO. Then after working across the 1st needle, pick up the thumb sts in the back bump of each chain, starting with the 2nd chain. Then continue working as usual with your 2nd needle. When you're ready to work your thumb, simply unzip your crochet chain starting with the last ch made. If you can't unzip smoothly, it's because you picked up in the chain incorrectly, but you can still easily unpick the chain sts one by one.

Knit 2 rnds even.

Dec rnd: Knit to marker, slip it, ssk, knit to last 2 sts of 1st needle, k2tog, and work 2nd needle even.

Rep last 3 rnds until you have 2 sts after the marker, which you'll k2tog on your next dec round. Then you'll have 1 st remaining after marker, so next dec rnd, knit to 1 st before the marker, slip that st, remove marker, return st to left needle, and k2tog the last 2 sts of 1st needle to return to original num of sts. Work 1 rnd even after this last dec.

CUFF:

To make 1st rnd of ribbing look smoother, switch to smaller needles and work 1 rnd even. Again with smaller needles, work *K2, P2, rep from * to end of round, or work ribbing of choice until desired length. BO loosely.

THUMB:

Transfer provisional thumb sts to larger needles, starting with the crook of the thumb to the right of the first sts, transfer half of sts on 1 needle, 2nd half on the other.

Join new yarn, beginning with crook to the right of the 1st st, work across both needles, then PU&K 3 sts evenly in the crook of the thumb, and continue to work in the rnd.

Work all rnds even until thumb length is just a few rnds shy of reaching the tip, then k2tog across the rnd, knit 1 rnd even, and alt these 2 rnds until 4 or so sts rem. Then cut yarn and draw thru the sts.

Of course, weave in the ends. If you knit this, I'd love to hear about your project!