Cocoa Risata Socks

I finished these last month, and patiently put them away, to be gifted to my honey for his birthday, and boy, does he like them! He especially complimented the stitch pattern. Ok, so a person can only get so excited about socks. It's not like I got him a Porche. But the warmth he'll have on his toes when the temps drop, will be worth the thousands of stitches.

Thousands? Yes, let's do some math. These are 84 sts around, approximately 14 rounds per inch. Each sock is about 20 inches, and there's two socks, of course.

14 rounds/inch x 20 inches = 280 rounds

280 rounds x 84 sts/rounds = 23520 stitches

23520 sts x 2 socks = 47040 stitches in a pair of socks

That's love, baby!

Here's the pattern for those who've asked:

The sock formula is from Ann Budd's Knitter's Handy Book of Patterns. I knit the men's medium, at 84 sts around. Then I plugged in a stitch pattern that is basically a staggered ribbing.

Work K1-P1 ribbing for a few inches, then:

*K2 P2* rep for 4 rounds
knit even 2 rounds
*P2 K2* rep for 4 rounds.
knit even 2 rounds

Repeat 12 rounds until desired length.
After heel, continue stitch pattern on top of foot only, keeping sole in stockingnette.

Jaywalker

Pattern: Jaywalker by Grumperina
Size: Women's 7
Needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm - Bamboo Clover DPN's
Yarn: Patons Kroy Socks Jacquards in Fern Rose (2 skeins)

MODIFICATIONS:

Gauge: CO 68 for 28 sts = 4” in St st.

Cuff: K1P1, then k6 between inc’s & dec’s

Heel: St st, no slipped sts, 22 rows,
PU&K 2 sts / 3 rows. (Look Ma, no holes!)

Foot: Slipped the 1st st of N2 (instead of last st of N1) on alternate non-zigzag rows. (Lines up the pattern perfectly!)

Upstream Dove Socks

The Upstream socks fit perfectly. This superwash merino/nylon blend so far is my favorite sock yarn. Not only is it soft, squishy, and silky, it's machine-washable!



From Cat Bordhi's New Pathways For Sock Knitters, I used the Master Upstream Pattern, a Standard Toe, the increase stitch pattern of the Dove Sock, and then followed with a Master Reinforced Heel. I had enough yarn to do two diamond repeats, and then finished with 1x1 ribbing, before binding off with just a few inches of yarn to spare. This is why I like toe-up socks: no yarn shortage & no yarn waste, either!

You can read more details about my hand-painted yarn on a previous post.

Knitting and Crochet

Here's a few things I've finished here and there: An Easter-like basket, a bath mitt & cloth set for my dishcloth exchange partner, another of my ubiquitous bath mitts again, and the baby blanket us Knit Niters finally finished for Laura's baby boy. All projects are in some form on Lily Sugar'n Cream - perfect for lazy summer knitting.

     


My favorite WIP of all, is this Master Upstream Socks from Cat Bordhi's book, New Pathways for Sock Knitters. I'm loosely following the Dove pattern, just for the decorative increases. Since my socks are at a tighter gauge (36 sts = 10cm on 2.0mm) the diamond pattern stops just a few inches after the heel, so I'm mirroring the pattern all the way up the leg.

The socks began on the magic loop, both at once, but after the heel, I put them onto DPN's. For one, I got tired of untangling the yarn, and two, I knit faster on DPN's. Still, the magic loop is great for insuring that both socks will be identical without too much counting and measuring.

Unlike the feet, I can easily work the legs identically without measuring, because one, the stitch pattern itself creates a built-in self-measuring feature, and two, I'm using the identical balls of yarn from the same sock blank, and will knit until I run out.

Once I got a few inches into the leg, I switched to 2.25mm DPN's so the socks won't cut off my circulation. So far, then fit perfectly. I look forward to happy, warm, and cheerfully bright feet this winter.

Reworking the Rainbow - Super Stretchy Bind-off (Cast-off) for Socks

About two years ago, my DD chose the yarn for hand-knit socks and described a pattern to me. I happily embarked on the journey, since the self-striping rainbow yarn was fun. In the end, she couldn’t stand to wear wool, and I was left with the choice of ripping and reclaiming the yarn, or gifting them, because I couldn’t get the cuffs past my ankles.

Instead, I ripped back just past the ribbed cuffs that were worked on size 000 (1.5mm) needles, which made them extremely elastic and perfect for staying on the calves of a 9 year old. I put the stitches onto size 1 (2.25mm) needles and worked 2x2 ribbing. When it came time to bind-off, I stopped to think.

The standard bind-off is too firm, even when worked on larger needles. Sewn bind-offs are better, but the best one is the 1x1 tubular bind-off, which I did not do, and the others have to be done so loosely that they tend to look sloppy, plus sewn bind-offs are very tedious. On my last two pairs of socks, I simply doubled the number of stitches, by adding yarn-overs after every stitch on the last row before binding-off.


This time I tried something different – still very stretchy, but without the YO holes, a bit more decorative, since it's done in purl. You could also work it in knit, in ribbing, or whatever stitch pattern you prefer:

SUPER-STRETCHY BIND-OFF

Purl 1, *yo, BO over the yo, purl 1, BO1, rep from * till the end, then fasten off as usual. Weave in the yarn tail underneath the “V” of the 1st BO stitch, then back though the middle of the “V” of your last BO stitch, to bring the edges together seamlessly. For me, I prefer to BO with a tiny crochet hook, since it’s much easier to pull the yo through the st than to try to leapfrog the st over the yo on tiny needles.

The socks now fit me perfectly, and await patiently for the first nip of cool weather. Then I’ll return to the Kool-Aid sock blank. I’m trying the Upstream master pattern from Cat Bordhi’s New Pathways for Sock Knitters.

Upstream from a Sock Blank

When I got the last KnitPicks catalog, I was facinated by their new sock blank product and technique of dyeing them. I've heard about this in blogs and magazines, but it never occurred to me that I could actually make my own until now.

First I unwound 2 skeins of KnitPicks sock yarn into 2 loose piles. Then I slipped the 3.5 keyplate on my Bond knitting machine, and double stranded the yarn to knit one long sock blank. I immediately realized that the blank was longer than my kitchen table, so I unraveled half of it, which left me enough for one pair of socks.

I soaked the blank overnight in tap water, then squeezed it in a towel. Next, I placed the blank on on plastic wrap, then mixed up approximately 1 packet of Kool-Aid per every 1/2 cup of water, and applied the solution with a sponge brush. Then I carfully rolled up the blank in the plastic wrap, and nuked the whole thing at 30 second intervals, flipping it over each time, until the plastic wrap looked like it was going to burst. Finally, I let the whole thing cool overnight in the wrap.

After unwrapping it, I rinsed it, squeezed the water out in a towel. Most people let the whole blank dry, and then work their socks directly from the blank as it's unraveled, but then the yarn is kinky. I prefer working with straight yarn, so I carefully unraveled it while still wet, then wound it back into hanks, and let them dry before rolling them into balls.


The dye didn't quite penetrate the yarn completely, either from knitting too tightly, or perhaps I could've squished more dye solution into the yarn. The yarn has little light and white blotches, but still, I like the way it knits up with a mottled hand-dyed look.

I've decided to work the Upstream Master Sock pattern from Cat Bordhi's New Pathways for Sock Knitters. I've finished the toe, and now am ready to begin the increases. I haven't decided yet whether I just want to work the increase triangle in plain stockinette, or some sort of stitch pattern to show off the unusual construction. Stay tuned!

Sock in the New Year with a Pattern!

For the first time in decades, my family rang in the new year together. Dad, Mom, Sis, her kid, my man, my kid, and her best bud, all came over to my house. We began the evening dining on black-eyed peas and grilled burgers. Afterwards, we played Chinese checkers and drank champange, except for the kids, who conjured up a talent show. They sang, performed magic tricks, and I entered with a guitar rendition of Auld Lang Syne. Then the party turned into a big slumber party, so nobody would have to share the road with the year's first drunk drivers.

The next day, everyone went their merry ways - to Razorback parties, and back home to take naps. I stayed home and cleaned up, then sat down and knit myself a pair of 100% wool socks. I finished them in only a few hours, and they kept me warm through the night.

This following pattern includes lessons on my favorite techniques for socks knitted from cuff to toe. It begins with the tubular cast-on, on to a slipped rib square heel with twisted picked-up stitches in mirror image, and finally ends in a wedge toe that's grafted closed. The worsted weight yarn makes thick and warm unisex socks. The stitch patterns are a mirror image of each other, but the socks will still look fine in the same pattern if your prefer.

Size
Leg approx 6" long by 8" around, to fit a 9" long foot, but leg and foot length are easily adjusted

Materials
Approx. 200 yds (182m) of Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool for woman's US-7
Sizes 4 (3.5mm) and 6 (4.0mm) set of 5 double point needles
Yarn needle

Gauge
5 sts per inch in St st on larger needles

Stitch Pattern for Sock 1

Rnd 1: *K4 P1*
Rnd 2: *K3 P2*
Rnd 3: *K2 P3*
Rnd 4: *K1 P4*

Stitch Pattern for Sock 2

Rnd 1: K1 *P1 K4* P1 K3
Rnd 2: K1 *P2 K3* P2 K2
Rnd 3: K1 *P3 K2* P3 K1
Rnd 4: *K1 P4*

Tubular cast-on

Though initially it's a challenge to learn, nothing beats the stretchiness and aesthetic of this cast-on for 1x1 ribbing. It looks much neater when worked on a needle 2 or more sizes smaller than with the one you'll work your ribbing.

Allow about 1/2 inch of tail for each CO st. Hold your thumb and forefinger of your left hand in a horizontal V-shape pointing right. Lay the yarn across the V so the tail end is draped over your thumb and the ball end over your forefinger. Hold both strands with remaining fingers in your palm underneath, making a simple triangle, just as you would for starting the continental long-tail cast on without a slip knot. Make a simple twist start: with the needle in your right hand, bring the tip over the top of the strand running between thumb and finger, point it downward, then rotate it upwards towards the thumb until the tip faces left again.

Now you're in the starting position (with the needle tip facing left above both strands forming a diamond shape). Keep your finger securely on the starting loop to prevent it from untwisting. For the next steps, you will only work with the inner strands - the ones running from the needle tip to your finger and thumb.

Step 1: Rotate the needle over then behind the finger strand, then going downward beneath both strands, bring the tip up towards you from underneath the thumb strand, then go over the thumb strand, down in between the two strands and underneath and behind the finger strand, and bring the tip up and over the finger strand, returning to starting position. This is a purl stitch.

Step 2: Rotate the needle over and in front of the thumb strand, go underneath the thumb strand, then come up from between both strands, and go over and behind the finger strand, rotating the tip underneath both strands, and finally bringing it up in front of the thumb strand and back into starting position. This is a knit stitch.

Keep alternating between steps 1 and 2, and keep a firm grip on your yarn the entire time, or everything will quickly unravel. When casting on an odd number of sts this way, end with a normal long-tail CO st. Or when CO and even number this way, make the last stitch a half-hitch purl:

Rotate the tip behind the outer strand of the finger and pull up this strand, creating a loop on your finger, then move the tip down between both inner strands, then rotate the tip underneath then in front of the inner thumb strand, pulling this strand up and then push it away from you through the initial finger loop, then release the loop from your finger and tighten as you would for the standard long tail cast on.

This half-hitch purl is almost a mirror image of the continental long-tail cast-on - you're purling it instead of knitting it. You can use it in place of the long-tail cast on to begin your first row as a front side row, or alternate it with the standard long-tail cast on for ribbing or other stitch patterns.

Once you get the knack, it's truly a fast an easy cast on. As with most things it knitting, it's much easier to execute than to describe with words alone.


THE SOCK

On 1 smaller dpn, cast on 40 sts with the tubular cast on. Distribute 10 stitches each on 4 smaller needles. Join to work circularly, being careful not to twist the cast on.

Cuff

With larger needles, beginning with a knit st, work k1 p1 ribbing for 15 rows, or desired length.

Leg

Work sock stitch pattern for 8 repeats, or until desired length.

Heel flap

K21, turn

Row 1: S1wyif, P20, turn

Row 2: (S1wyib, K1)x10, K1, turn

Repeat these 2 rows 9 times, then work row 1

Heel turn

(S1, K1)x7, S1, SKP, turn

Row 1: S1, P9, P2tog, turn

Row 2: S1, (S1, K1)x4, S1, K2tog, turn

Rep these last 2 rows till all heel sts have been worked, ending with row 1 (11 heel sts rem)

(S1, K1)x5, K1

Gusset

*With smaller needle in left hand (after last heel st worked) pick up both strands of chain edge heel flap st , inserting tip from front to back, so the right leg of chain st is in front. Using a second smaller needle in right hand, insert tip from right to left (through the back loop) and knit, hence twisting the st.* Rep along heel flap. You should have about 10 chain edge sts to pick up this way.

Work across instep sts with larger needle, beg with row 1 of st pattern, making last gusset st the 1st st of instep.

*With smaller needle in left hand, (after last instep st worked) pick up both strands of chain edge heel flap st, inserting tip from back to front, so the right leg of chain st is in back. Using a second smaller needle in right hand, insert tip from left to right and knit, hence twisting the st.* Rep along heel flap. You should have about 10 chain edge sts to pick up this way.

(Since you're working down the flap on one side, then up the flap on the other, picking up the sts differently on each side and twisting them in opposite directions makes them look equal. Functionally they both prevent the tiny holes that often occur when picking up gusset sts. You can work either method on both sides.)

Place marker to note beg of rnd.

Rnd 1: K1 rnd even, working with larger needles, dropping the smaller ones as you go, and work next row of st pattern on instep, .

Rnd 2: (K1, S1)x5, K1 across heel sts, K to 3 sts before instep, K2tog, K1, work instep st pattern, K1, SKP, K to end of rnd.

Rep these last two rnds until 40 sts rem, but stop slipping the heel sts, and just k across them even. Depending on number of sts picked up at heel flaps, you may have to skip a dec on either side of instep to keep the number of sts equal.

Foot

Mark beg of rnd just after instep sts.

K20, work instep pattern.

Rep until foot is approx 2 inches less than desired length from heel turn.

Toe

Rnd 1: K1, SKP, work to last 3 heel sts, K2tog, K2, SKP, work to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.

Rnd 2: K 1 rnd even

Rep these last 2 rnds until 20 sts rem, ending with rnd 1, then work rnd 1 once more.

Divide sts on 2 needles, 8 heel sts on one, 8 instep sts on the other.

Kitchener stitch

Cut yarn with 18" tail and thread on yarn needle.

Hold sock so that both needles are parallel, one in front, the other in back, with sock hanging below, and yarn tail at right.

Insert needle into first st on front as if to purl, then into first st on back as if to knit, pull tight.

Front needle: Insert into first st as if to knit, drop that st off needle, insert into next st as if to purl.

Back needle: Insert into first st as if to purl, drop that st off needle, insert into next st as if to knit.

Rep these last 2 steps, pulling yarn snuggly but not too tightly, until 2 sts rem. Insert into front needle as if to knit, then into back needle as if to purl, drop both sts off needles, then weave tail into wrong side of sock.

Darn loose ends.

This pattern is for personal use only. Kindly let me know if this pattern contains errors. Last update: Nov. 12, 2007

Knifty Knitter Socks

Even though I can knit comfortably with needles, I still like to knit loom projects. They are super-fast, sort of like a manual knitting machine. Knitting on looms preceeded needle knitting, and the result is essentially the same. Think of a knitting loom, or knitting frame, as a needle cut into pieces.


In a couple of hours, I whipped up these slipper socks. I designed the pattern myself, roughly adapting from traditional needle patterns. The result is more of a slipper than a sock, because with these looms, you must use bulky yarns. However, there are other looms out there that are capable of knitting sock weight yarns.



$2.00 via Ravelry.com